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Spam
Thursday, Dec. 11, 2008

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You want to do the recession right? You've got to learn to eat Spam. Already, sales of the canned spiced ham (that spice is...salt!) are at the highest since World War II, and they're just going to get higher. Since there's no advice on the can, I asked some of the best chefs in the nation to come up with an inexpensive Spam recipe. I was with Brandon Boudet of Dominick's in Los Angeles when he tried his hand at Spamghetti carbonara, and we were both happy with the way it turned out. I was also impressed with the eight recipes the other chefs submitted. Almost impressed enough to cook them myself. Almost.

Spamghetti Carbonara

Recipe courtesy of Chef Brandon Boudet of Los Angeles' Dominick's

• 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 5 oz. Spam, cut into ¼ x ¼ dice
• 2 eggs plus 2 egg yolks
• 1 lb. spaghetti
• 1/2 cup grated Reggiano Parmesan cheese
• 1/2 cup grated Pecorino Parmesan
• Fresh black pepper to taste

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the Spam and sauté until crisp and brown, approximately 5 to 6 minutes.

In a separate bowl, add the eggs, egg yolks and 1/4 cup of water and beat together with fork until light and frothy.

Cook the spaghetti in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, approximately 10 minutes. Drain in a colander and then return spaghetti to the pot.

Using two large forks, mix in the eggs, Spam with all the pan drippings, cheese and black pepper to the spaghetti in the pan. Serve immediately.

Spam Fried Rice

Recipe courtesy of Chef Scott Gottlich of Dallas' Bijoux

• 3 cups cooked and chilled jasmine rice
• 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh basil
• 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 Tbsp. chopped scallions
• 1 whole egg
• 1/3 lbs. Spam, cubed
• 1 Tbsp. neutral oil (such as canola or sunflower oil)
• 1/2 tsp. sesame seed oil
• 5 drops fish sauce
• 2 Tbsp. soy sauce

In a hot pan, place neutral oil and sesame oil. Once hot, add rice and sauté (a wok can be used if you have one). Add in the meat, heat and sear. When completed, push to the side of the pan and add the egg. Break it up and scramble in the pan. You want it to be scrambled in the pan so there is a contrast of yellow and white. Fold all the ingredients together. Add the herbs and fold, now add the fish sauce and soy sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Flyin' Hawaiian Burger

Recipe courtesy of Chef Anthony Meidenbauer of Las Vegas' LBS Burger Joint

• Hawiian sweet roll (available at most grocers)
• Teriyaki sauce
• Roasted pineapple relish (recipe to follow)
• Chili mayo (recipe to follow)
• Daikon sprouts (available at most grocers)
• Lomi lomi tomato (recipe to follow)
• Lettuce
• Spam

Roasted pineapple relish:
• Peel and core a fresh pineapple, dice into large chunks
• Slice 1 fresh jalapeno
• In a bowl, toss jalapeno and pineapple with 1⁄2 cup of teriyaki sauce and place on a roasting pan
• Place in a 400 degree oven for 40 minutes or until tender and slightly caramelized, allow to cool to room temperature
• Place mixture in a food processor and pulse to a relish-like consistency, season with salt and pepper to taste

Chili mayo:
• Place 1 cup of mayo in a mixing bowl
• Add 1.5 tablespoon of sambal olek chili paste (available at most grocers; add more chili paste for spicier or less for a more mild sauce), juice of 1 lemon and blend smooth
• Season with salt and pepper to taste

Lomi lomi tomato:
• Cut 5 Roma tomatoes in half and scoop out the seeds and juice, dice the remaining tomato flesh into 1⁄4 inch dice and place in a mixing bowl
• Finely chop 2 green onions (green portion only), finely julienne 1⁄4 of a red onion and add to the tomatoes
• Add 1 tsp of coarse salt (kosher or sea salt) and a pinch of fresh ground black pepper and gently massage the salt into the tomato

Assembly
Slice Spam into 1⁄4 inch slices and place into a hot skillet. Brown on both sides. Once the meat is browned, add 1 tablespoon of Teriyaki sauce and reduce slightly to glaze the spam.

Slice the sweet buns open and spread chili mayo on each half, add pineapple relish to bottom half of bun, place the Teriyaki glazed Spam on top of the pineapple relish. Top Spam with lettuce, lomi lomi tomatoes, and daikon sprouts. Top it off with the upper portion of the bun and enjoy!

Hot & Spicy Spam Coca, with Roasted Piquillo-Pineapple Escab[g {e}]che

Recipe courtesy of Chef Michael Fiorello of Chicago's Mercat a la Planxa

Makes 4

• 4 cocas, par baked (recipe to follow)
• 4 oz. Piquillo Pepper-Pineapple escabeche (recipe to follow)
• 4 oz. Manchego béchamel (recipe to follow)
• 1/2 cup grated Manchego cheese
• 12 Hot & Spicy Spam slices, 1/8"
• 1/4 cup fresh basil, julienne

For the Coca Dough:
• 1 lb. Store-bought raw pizza dough

Turn dough onto a clean work surface dusted with flour and form 2 oz. balls. Place dough balls on a tray and let them rest and proof for 30 minutes. In the meantime, preheat oven to 300F. After dough has rested, roll into long oval shapes, 1/8" thick. Prick dough with a fork, and brush with a little olive oil. Place ovals on a baking sheet and cook in the oven for 3 minutes, to set shapes. Remove and allow to cool at room temperature.

For the Manchego Cream:
• 1 cup Heavy Cream
• 1/2 cup Manchego cheese (3 month aged)
• 1/2 Tbsp. Salt

In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring cream to a simmer. Whisk in the Manchego and salt until cheese is melted. Place in a heat proof container and chill.

For the Piquillo-Pineapple Escab[g {e}]che:
• 8 Roasted Piquillo peppers, small dice
• 1 cup Diced Grilled Pineapple
• 1/4 cup Sun-Dried Tomatoes, small dice
• 1/4 cup Honey
• 1/4 cup White Wine Vinegar
• 1/4 Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 3 Tbsp. Red Onion, Minced
• 2 Tbsp. Parsley, chopped
• 1 Tbsp. (optional) Fresh thyme, picked and chopped
• 1/2 Tbsp. Salt
• 1/2 tsp. Freshly ground black pepper

Mix all ingredients and allow to marinate, chilled, for at least 1/2 hour before serving.

To Assemble Cocas:
Preheat oven to 450F with a pizza stone on center rack. If you don't have a pizza stone, wrap a cookie or baking sheet in aluminum foil and place, inverted, on center rack. Place 4 of the par-baked cocas on a clean, flat work surface. Spread 1 tbsp of Manchego béchamel on each. Top each coca with 3 slices of Hot & Spicy Spam. Spread the grated Manchego evenly on each coca. Using a spatula, carefully place cocas on baking surface and cook until cheese is melted and golden. Remove from oven and cut each coca into four slices. Place a teaspoon of escabèche on each slice, and sprinkle with julienne basil. Serve immediately.

Spam sushi roll

Recipe courtesy of Chef Kerry Simon of Simon in Los Angeles and Las Vegas

• 3 sheets Nori seaweed
• 3 cups Prepared sushi rice
• 1 can of SPAM, cut into matchsticks
• 1 Avocado, peeled and cut in fine pieces
• 1 Cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut in fine strips
• Sesame seeds, toasted

Place the nori on a bamboo mat, shiny side down. Dampen your fingers in water so that the rice does not stick to your hands. Spread rice evenly over nori.

Lay Spam, avocado and cucumber lengthwise. Sprinkle with sesame seeds. To roll: slowly fold the end of the mat closest to you over the filling and tuck it in. Use medium pressure to create a compact tube. Remove the mat from around the roll, press in the loose ends and place it on a cutting board, seam side down. Using a wet, sharp knife, slice the roll in half then into 6 equal pieces. Serve with wasabi, soy sauce and pickled ginger.

Spaghetti and Spamballs

Recipe courtesy of Chef Kerry Simon of Simon in Los Angeles and Las Vegas

• 1 lb. of dried spaghetti noodles
• 2 qts. of water

Marinara
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 small onions, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1/2 tsp. sea salt
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 2 (32-oz.) cans crushed tomatoes
• 2 dried bay leaves
• 2 Tbsp. chopped thyme
• 1 Tbsp. chopped rosemary
• 3 Tbsp. chopped basil

Spamballs
• 1 can of Spam

Simmer a large pot of salted water for the pasta. Before cooking the pasta, prepare marinara.

Over medium heat sauté onions and garlic in olive oil. Add salt and pepper.

Once onions have become translucent (about 2 minutes), add tomatoes and herbs and simmer on medium heat for 20 minutes.

Using a large melon baler, scoop out balls of spam. Add to a med-hot sauté pan and brown. Once brown, pour marinara over balls and place on low heat.

Add pasta to water and cook to al dente.

Strain pasta and add to marinara and serve.

Green eggs and Spam

Recipe courtesy of Chef Kerry Simon of Simon in Los Angeles and Las Vegas

• 2 Tbsp. butter
• 1 cup fresh spinach greens, washed and dried
• 1 can of Spam, diced
• 1/4 cup scallions, chopped
• 6 eggs whisked
• 2 Tbsp. herb pesto (recipe follows)
• Salt and freshly cracked black pepper

Herb pesto:
• 1/4 cup parsley leaves
• 1/4 cup basil leaves
• 1/4 cup spinach leaves
• 1/4 cup olive oil

Heat butter over medium heat in a nonstick skillet. Add Spam and cook until it begins to brown. Add spinach and sauté until spinach begins to wilt.

Add eggs and scallions and stir while eggs cook. Once eggs are cooked, season with salt and pepper, and add herb pesto and serve.

Spam and Pineapple Fried Rice

Recipe courtesy of Executive Chef Jet Tila of Las Vegas' Wazuzu (part of Steve Wynn's Encore resort set to Dec. 22)

• 1 medium Pineapple
• 3 Tbsp. Cooking Oil
• 4-6 Garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
• 3 Tbsp. Shallots, diced
• 4 oz. Spam, cut into small dice
• 1/2 Tbsp. Ginger, finely chopped
• 4 cups Day-old rice
• 2-3 Tbsp. Fish sauce
• 1-2 Tbsp. Thai soybean sauce
• 1 Tbsp. Sugar
• 1/2 Tbsp. Curry powder
• 2 to 3 Green onions, chopped
• 2 tsp. White pepper
• 3 Tbsp. Cilantro leaves

Cut the pineapple in half lengthwise and cut out the fruit section. Remove the core and cut the fruit into medium dice. Reserve about one cup of pineapple for the fried rice.

In a large skillet, heat oil until a wisp of white smoke appears, add garlic, ginger, and shallots and cook until light brown. Add the Spam and cook until slightly crisp, about 1 minute.

Fold in rice; make sure not to break rice grains. Add in the fish sauce, soybean sauce, sugar and curry powder. Continue to stir for about a minute. Stir in pineapple and incorporate well. Cook the fried rice for about 1 to 2 more minutes, folding constantly and mixing all the ingredients well.

Fold in green onions and white pepper. Transfer the fried rice into the halved pineapple. Garnish with some fresh cilantro.

Chef Russ's Late-Night Spam Sandwich

Recipe courtesy of Chef William "Russ" Cunningham of Charlotte's Cantina 1511

Serves 1

• 1 everything bagel
• 2 Tbsp. garlic cream cheese (store-bought variety is fine)
• 1 thick slice of Spam
• 1 slice of Gruyere or Swiss cheese
• 1 large slice of tomato
• 1 egg

Toast bagel to desired doneness. Spread cream cheese on both slices and set aside. Heat a small skillet over high heat. Once heated, place Spam in skillet and sear on both sides until browned and slightly caramelized. Place Spam on top of bagel and top with sliced cheese. In the same skillet on medium heat, fry the egg until over medium, or until yolk is slightly runny. Place egg on top of cheese, top with tomato and other bagel slice. Enjoy.

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  • Joel Stein
Photo: David McNew / Getty